The normal daily tension between India and Pakistan arises in many forms, but in one nightly ceremony on the border at Wagah Crossing (which a Los Angeles Times reporter described in September as part pomp, part macho posturing, and part Monty Python's Ministry of Silly Walks), uniformed guards from both countries march toward each other in traditional yet inexplicably complicated headgear, "glower fiercely through their mustaches," puff themselves up in a show of confidence for any of their respective countrymen observing, but then meekly shake hands and close the border for the day.











